10th June

Up just after 4am and helped Murray load the bike and waved him off as he left to catch his bus. Went back inside where some tantric loony was huffing, puffing and gargling as part of his morning ritual.

Cab arrived late on the way to the airport but checked in fine. In my short acquaintance with the bike bag I have come to loathe it deeply.

Dull flight over millions of acres of Canadian nothing and arrived at Minneapolis 30 mins late. Had the joy of tearing around the airport, just making the departure gate for the final call. Looks like we’ll be about 30 mins late in to the air as well… why can’t they… oh why bother! With luck I’ll sleep on this flight. $130 to get the extra bag home – better be at Gatwick in good nick. Now we have inane yoga on screen. I’ll have a nice day if I want to. Aaarghhh!

Coming in to land at Gatwick and it looks as if we will only be 10 mins late.

THE END

Loading the bike

Safe Journey mate

9th June

Mild hangover, that a coffee and a Dr Pepper fixed, and then did all the re-packing of all M’s stuff to go back to the UK. Took a bus downtown and bought the last things I need, including the glue to fix the brewery sign that I broke off the bike yesterday – beer in a seedy bar on the walk back from downtown and then was back at Spenard.

Fixed the beer sign and M returned from his shopping trip. Suddenly it’s time to go home! The return always seemed such a long way ahead, and now I have one last night. Well, my last night was a quiet, low alcohol one. Went just over the road to Gwennie's for a BBQ ribs and a last glass of Alaskan beer. The TV was showing the program of Alaskan crab fisherman.

Back to the hostel and shifted all our stuff out of the bunk room to the lobby, so we don’t disturb anyone with our early starts; M leaves just after 5am to catch his bus to the border, and I have a cab booked for 06:45. Everything’s done…. So it ends where it began… Spenard Hostel and Anchorage airport. Still have not worked out what to do about sleep and jet lag. Will try to sleep on the transatlantic flight I think; never had jet lag before, and am not looking forward to it.

8th June

Up at 8 and checked on the bus from Wasilla to Anchorage – difficult to get the info online so we did a re-calculation and changed plans – load the car, drive everything to Spenard Hostel and then Murray drops the car off at the airport and cycles the 2 miles back to the Hostel.

Cleaned up the things we had used at Colleen’s, loaded up and drove out of Wasilla. On the way we managed to get all M’s photos transferred on to a CD-ROM, so I’ll be able to take them home. On the way to Anchorage I finally saw some moose – grazing in some flat marshland in the preserved land on the west of the Highway.

Arrived in Anchorage and drove ‘round ‘til we found Murray’s bus departure point for Sunday morning. One more stop at REI for stuff, where the bike was given the once over by an Aussie working there, and it was on to Spenard. Checked in, sent a quick email, found out more about Igloo City and then caught a bus back to the Snow Goose.

Had the best seafood meal I’ve ever had; halibut stuffed with crabmeat in a parmesan sauce with garlic potatoes and fresh asparagus – god it was good. Left there and went to a lively bar, and then back to Humpies for a last pint. Excellent R&B band playing. Eventually left and caught a cab home.

7th June

Up at 7 and sat at a table in the woods with a cup of tea listening to the birds singing. Went to the viewpoint with the bear spray, ever hopeful, but still no bears. Woke M with a brew and he ate his breakfast while I chatted to a guy on a mountain bike from Fairbanks called John.

Drove the last 24 miles to the Talkeetna turning where I sorted out all the stuff in the car to make room for M and the bike. When he gets here he will have ridden 759 miles since his start point just south of Deadhorse (according to the milometer in the car).

Murray arrived after 2 hours on the road, did a quick change, loaded the bike and we drove in to Talkeetna, passing Larry & Jane on the way. Met them and bought them a lunch to say thanks, in the West Rib. Apparently, the local school burned to the ground 2 days ago! Said goodbye to Larry & Jane and drove to Wasilla, past an unpleasant looking road accident and arrived at Coleen’s where we emptied the car, did our stinky laundry and reorganised our luggage.

Colleen arrived home from work and we took her, and Dale & Linda (who’d lent us the car Murray had when I first arrived) out for a nice Italian meal (hello, I’m Lisa, I’ll be your waitress this evening) and came back. Said goodnight and goodbye to Colleen, who was getting up at 5am, polished off the last of the rough whisky and went to bed.

Morning view

Sleeping arrangements

Back to square one.

6th June

Igloo City

Up at 7.00 to find that the wind had died away and the wind generator wasn’t even turning. Breakfast and M was away by 8.20. I drove back to Cantwell for water and coffee & pecan pies.

Drove on to "Igloo City" to wait. It is a 4 storey high igloo with dormer windows made of ply & covered in foam and a waterproof render. Looking through the windows at ground floor level the inside is entirely studwork, but with no evidence of any plasterboard having been put up and the wires still not terminated – I don’t think it was ever completed. Murray hates it…. I think it is wonderful.

While we were there the RV Convoy we had passed at Nenana turned up and a couple of ‘em came over for a chat; as usual, nice people, even if the vehicles are absolutely preposterous. This was only a brief stop for architectural appreciation and then I drove on to Hurricane Gulch, where the bridge spans a 240’ drop to the river.

On the way I passed a deep ravine in the lush green trees that was still a solid block of blue white ice. Should get a good shot of the bike cycling over this bridge; providing I don’t fall down the sides! It turns out that we had both seen the red fox hanging around on the road this morning; though it was very fluffy and I need to find out if arctic foxes change colour in the summer.

Drove the 15 miles on to the Ermine Hill trailhead. 20 more took us to yet another trailhead, this time with an olde worlde water pump that we both had to play with, there was a woman dozing in the sun here with a husky and .44 magnum – apparently for protection against bears. On the way to this stop I passed a porcupine on the side of the road. I managed to get a couple of photos as it shuffled away, looking furtively over its shoulder at me.

M said he felt good for a few more miles, so drove on 17 more to a lovely stop in the trees with no mosquitoes and a short walk to an outstanding view over the Chulitna river valley. A braided river about ½ mile wide. That made a new record for Murray of 83 miles. We cooked up our last meal in the open with only 21 miles or so left to do until he rejoins his previous route.

Needed to phone Colleen & Larry & Jane so we went 13 miles back North to a café for a beer and the barman let us use his mobile. All arranged for tomorrow. Tried to buy a carry-out but it is against the law from a bar… hence the separate room at Cantwell’s bar last night.

All is done for tonight. Last glass (mug) of whisky and then it is our last night in the back of the trusty Durango. Traffic has quietened right down now, even the flights in and out of Talkeetna seem to have finished and we sit in these woods in peace, with birdsong (poor buggers don’t get much sleep in the summer!) and the frothy cream coloured blossoms of what looks like ground elder. If it is, and it survives up here, there’s no wonder you can’t get it out of your garden.

Hurricane Gulch

Bloody Mosquitos

Pump it up

5th June

Late start with M feeling a little worn out after yesterday's 78 miles, but after breakfast I drove on to the thoroughly commercial area ‘round the Denali Park entrance – the names of the rivers and streams the road crosses are superb – Iceworm Gulch, Penguingue Creek (sic), Bison Gulch, Dragonfly Creek.

The bridge over the 100 foot deep gorge that the Nenana River cuts is unnerving due to the high winds – this is evidently quite frequent as half way along it there is a wind sock to show drivers what to expect. Murray arrived absolutely bushed. Said that he had tried walking but cycling did give him about 1kmh increase in speed. The wind had blown him to a halt while free wheeling down hill.

Sat in subway and ate a roll and then drove 22 miles on to a windy layby right on the bank of the Tanana river. It is shallow and fast flowing here, but very grey and silty with all the rock dust shattered and ground out of the mountains that surround it. Murray decided that the 44 miles was not enough for the day so decided to go on another 19 as far as Broad pass, which is the highest point and leaves only 100 miles to do to the Talkeetna Junction, and the linking of the two cycling journeys.

M made good time to the last stop. I’d driven to the agreed layby at milepost 201 a dull layby but with superb views of Mt McKinley; so photo and quick clip of video after the Princess tour bus departed, then drove ½ mile back down the road to the automated weather station and nosed behind that – lo & behold an airstrip, with a hedge to keep the noise of the road away and level ground.

The book says it was created for P51 lightnings during the war, as it was out of range of carrier-born jap bombers. Parked up here and had a good meal of beef, garlic sausage & rice; washed down with a 6 pack of Bud that I’d bought from a seedy bar in Cantwell 7 miles earlier. Seems to be few mosquitoes here (not that I’m obsessed) and I think the wind is keeping them away. If that is the case then it has been the only good thing about it – it’s been blowing in his face all day and the calorie counter says he’s burned over 4000 calories today – the hardest day’s cycling yet. McKinley looks stunning; summit above the clouds. I will try to take a photo of it as the sun moves further round to the North. It is 9.30pm now and we may lose it tonight as I think it will drop below the line of hills to the West of us – also I don’t want to be up too late in case the wind drops and the mossies come out to play (yep! Definitely obsessed). The squeaking of the weather station’s wind generator will let us know what it’s doing. At the moment it sounds like a flock of argumentative ducks.

Airing Murray's Sock

Trusty Transport

4th June

Good early start-up at 7am; tea with fresh milk was lovely; the chilli flavoured pork scratchings were not a success! Drove on 20 miles and Murray took longer than usual to arrive. When he did, it turned out that he had had a puncture. His plastic tyre levers were a little feeble, and he’d had the devil’s own job getting the tyre back on. While he ate and drank, I repaired the flat tube, so he still has one in reserve; providing the patch is good – he’d ridden over a 2" nail.

He continued and I drove on to Nenana where I bought some cold root beers for the icebox, had coffee and a bun and posted the t-shirt to Molly. Waited for M about 7 miles further down the road – a layby at Fish Creek. While M was eating, a movement in the river caught my eye and we watched an otter for about 5 minutes as it swam around 15yds away keeping an eye on us.

Drove ahead to a picnic spot where my luck with ammunition still held out – this time ½ dozen .22 cases, I hope the otter makes it as an otter, not as someone’s hat! Final stop was 10 miles further still, making 78 miles for the day. Found a disused sand & gravel quarry and parked there. Huge collection of spent ammo cases and mashed bullets – people must use it for a shooting gallery. Also ½ a dead fox – fairly well mummified so no fear of a bear coming back for a second course. Someone has dumped an old kitchen unit and worktop here, so we will be cooking in style tonight (bratwurst, potato salad and baked beans). Tried the triscuits again – still don’t like them.

Very few mosquitoes here, probably because it is so dry. The insect collection on the front of the car is coming on well. The road ascends through the Alaska Range tomorrow so lots of hills. However, the views along this stretch of road have been wonderful ever since Nenana. Snow capped peaks in the distance etc. Bottle of "Smoking Loon" Cabernet with the food went down well.

Nenana Church

Wild Kitchen

3rd June

Foul!

Up at 7.30, coffee at the hostel and then went and bought an adjustable spanner for the bike. Off to the tourist info office and got the info on Chena Hot Springs and sent a long email to everyone.

When I got back Murray had cycled off to get breakfast and returned with a box of Cheerios and fresh milk. Lazed about for a couple of hours and then drove to the hot springs.. Plenty hot enough! I could only manage about 30 minutes before I felt par-boiled and exhausted so I got out and bought a card for the kids – this time with 5 bears on it.

The rain and thunder had stopped by the time I was dressed, but sitting in the steaming water outside, while the thunder rumbled around was great. Loads of Japanese at the hot springs. Obviously a popular destination for them as a lot of (if not all) the signs are bi-lingual.

No fuel here, so at last we topped up with the 5 gallons we have been hauling around since we left Fairbanks on our way north. Back to the hostel and we were just washing out the stinky cool box and topping up with water when two Brit, long distance cyclists said hello. Nicky and Jason (www.alaskatoargentina.co.uk) are doing the same journey as Murray (towing trailers). Expert bike mechanics, they gave Murray’s bike the once over, adjusted the chain, and sorted problems he didn’t know he had. Said goodbye to those guys and we were off again.

Murray straight on the road, while I stocked up on food again. This time I bought a bloody great bag of ice for the coolbox, and almost all the meat is cooked and vacuum packed sausages and salami. Drove on ahead for 23 miles to the lay-by we’d selected from "the milepost" and Murray turned up – delighted with the way the bike was performing and had soup, ciabatta and camembert – oh! The joys of just having been shopping. Also drank the 6 bottles of cold Alaskan beer. Did not, however, enjoy the savoury snack I purchased, lured by the olive on the front of the box - "Triscuits". They are to all intents and purposes savoury, garlic flavour shredded wheat – foul!

BLOODY MOSQUITOS

Chena Hot Springs

2nd June

Very early start – up at 5.40, boiled up for tea and breakfast and Murray was on the road at 6.40. the usual 20 miles ahead to globe creek for tea and bagel – just realised what is weird; not the moose poo in the bushes, it’s the fact that we now have full-size birch & aspen, and an English style summer day with bird song, but no sign whatsoever of any agriculture. No fields for livestock or arable, no hedges; just wilderness. Countless miles of forest with the very occasional homestead – like a teaspoon of rice sprinkled over a tennis court.

Drove ahead to a gas station for coffee, fuel and smokes and then returned to the 21 mile point to fuel Murray. Murray arrived and ate and then I dashed in to Fairbanks…God, people, buildings, traffic! However, the people at the tourist info centre were very good and I used internet to figure out Murray’s chain tension probs and booked our hostel and found locations of bike shop and launderette.

Met Murray at Fred bloody Meyers and we went to hostel. He fell off the bike at 2mph due to chain jumping and has grazed arm and knee. I have super cheap t-shirt and shorts to change in to courtesy of Walmart (crikey… even the US has chavs!) and got a pair of Converse for Daisy.

Hostel is a set of permanent tents with wooden floors and beds (like M.A.S.H but beige) and common areas (showers, kitchen etc) are cabins. They are also erecting tepee for the summer. Murray and Rolf the owner have fallen out over hot water and mirrors (shaving just ain’t worth the hassle).I Wait for Murray to ablute and then off to the tourist info to use the internet facilities and just up the road to use the launderette. Jesus, I stank as I undressed for the shower.... I smell different – a little like the smell of freeze dried food, perhaps it is these "trans fats" that are used over here. Perhaps I am just changing the way I smell, perhaps it’s the DEET.

Launderettes are the same everywhere – stuffy, dull and mesmerising – still we have a full stock of clean clothes.

Back to the hostel to dump the car and then a beer in the Boatel bar and BBQ ribs with cornbread and coleslaw at Big Daddy’s. both venues had live music…. Both sorts; country and western – liked the guitarist's style at Big Daddy’s. Back to the hostel where everyone was still up and crashed out – proper bed, clean body and beer. Hooray.

the hostel in Fairbanks

1st June

Up at 7.15 to brew up and then over the Yukon Bridge. I waited the other side to get a photo of Murray as he cycled over. Found a .300 magnum rifle cartridge on the ground before I left – have kept it to hand in to the police.

After about 6 miles I came across a section of road about 3 miles long that was being rebuilt – we were taken through in convoy, and Murray, travelling behind, had to put his bike in the back of a pickup and get driven through. After the 1st stop, I tried to collect water from the Hess creek, but it was very muddy and didn’t bother – but I did see what looked like a swallowtail butterfly flit off through the trees.

Parked for second stop with only 14 miles of the Dalton Highway remaining. Big change in plant life as I travel south – birch and aspen are now full size trees and there are lots more insects; although fewer mosquitoes thank god! Third stop at end of Dalton Highway to wait for Murray and another photo – just after he arrived a snowshoe rabbit wandered out of the bushes and nibbled some grass in front of us. I drove as far as the "arctic circle trading post" in joy where all I could buy was coke and dr pepper. They did let me have water though, and free coffee. A chat with the Indian looking girl there made me realize growing up here must be difficult – home school, no other kids for 40 odd miles etc.

Drove back to meet Murray at the Colorado Creek Trailhead, and was just cooking as he arrived, making a superb 74 miles for the day. Should be in Fairbanks for tomorrow (Sat) night at 66 miles away; given that Murray’s knees don’t play up too much. The plan is for the two support stops tomorrow, then I dash ahead to secure hostel accommodation and find a launderette and then meet Murray at the ubiquitous Fred Meyers and then showers, change and beer!

end of the road

snowshoe rabbit

31st May

Up at 7.15, so an early cuppa at the picnic spot in the trees and we used the last of the firewood to toast bagels, which were eaten with honey. Murray took the opportunity to have lots of photos taken by the Arctic Circle sign for various sponsors: Cotswold, Ringwood Brewery and Bournemouth FC.

Drove on the 22 miles and boiled water while listening to birds singing in the stunted pines and spruce. The first 20 miles involved a bit of a climb so the size of trees decreased and the ground cover became more tundra like. Should be a gentle descent to the Yukon crossing where there should be smokes, coffee and, if we’re lucky, beer.
Later
Arrived at Yukon crossing – no beer, but all the rest, along with sodas. I got to the second stop and drove a further 12 miles to a truck stop for cigs and a couple of cold cans to take back. An odd place – about 3 or 4 beaten up old trailers hidden in the trees about ¼ mile off the road – seemed to stock everything, including tourist gimcrackery. A large butch lady (well I say lady) came out in unpleasantly tight clothing, sold me what I needed and disappeared back inside.

Odd way to make a living; and I found myself thinking, on the return drive, that she had been an emotionally damaged Vietnam veteran after a sex change. I really must get back to civilization!

After the 2nd stop, it was an easy drive to the Yukon, with fabulous views as I crested the last rise. Despite the undoubted mental instability I will be very sorry to leave the Dalton highway tomorrow. Murray arrived after making good time and we are sitting in the diner waiting for food.

Weather still glorious and none of the stops today were plagued by bloody mossies. There is a photo book here that tells the tale of the winter of 04/05 when a bear got in to the place and wrought havoc while it was closed for the winter…. Poor bugger was shot while he lay sleeping on a pile of souvenir merchandise. But looking at the size of him in the photos, I would have shot him too.

Still haven’t seen one, will soon start baiting with porridge. Walked over the bridge later, and from the uphill, South end saw a slipway that looked a good place to take a photo. Wandered back to it, only to be met by the sound of bloody bagpipes! Luckily it was just some hunters listening to a tape while they loaded their boat. Moved the car into the shade and crashed out for the night.

Alyeska Pipeline & Dalton Highway

Crossing the Yukon

The Mighty Yukon

30th May

Good early start and over to the café for a coffee, then filled up on water and ice before crossing the road to the visitor centre. Got lots of info as well as a certificate and the stamp.

Set off and drove 20 miles to the Koyukuk river crossing. Stopped here to brew and found a new flower – there are scrawny dandelions everywhere. Just as we left Coldfoot, the dog teams behind the truck stop started to howl – very eerie sound. Usual routine of 20 mile runs and park ups until I got to the Jim River, where I jingled around collecting fire wood that I strapped to the roof of the car. I made it to the Arctic Circle lay-by at 6pm. Chopped wood into manageable lengths, lit mossie coils, brewed up and got all ready.

There were no mosquitoes here on the way up, and now we are mobbed – luckily 100% Deet keeps ‘em off. Writing this sitting by the fire with our beans, rice and sausages cooking and sizzling away. Will have to drive to nearest river for water before bed tonight so washing up can be done and morning tea can be made. BLOODY MOSQUITOS!!!

Cooking at the Arctic Circle camp

Back at the Arctic Circle

29th May

It rained during the night, but the ground was dry enough when I got up at 8.30. Breakfast, tea and coffee were done as usual. Took pic of Murray by the northernmost spruce and then drove on 22 miles, past the wide, braided and rushing river until I had passed the road guys grading the surface and stopped to brew up, and picked a selection of the wild flowers.

At the foot of Sukakpak Mountain we are back into spruce country; lovely sunshine and trees up to 20’ tall. After the break I drove on 21 more miles to the turnoff to a track through the forest. At the end of this was a stack of firewood and a tent frame made of spruce boughs. Just north was a small lake with a pair of Slovenian Grebes and a Merganser type duck. Picked a few different wild flowers – more varieties even 20 miles south and I jangled through the woods for a while with my bear bells on until Murray turned up and I cooked the noodles.

Drove the last 21 miles to Coldfoot in glorious sunshine at 25mph, with the windows open listening to the birdsong in the trees, now including a good mix of scrawny aspens with their pale quaking leaves. Here I sit, on the veranda of the Coldfoot truck stop, fresh pack of smokes, sun shining and waiting for Murray. The post office looks to be open, so if I can find a card I may send one. Hope to visit the rangers’ centre over the road tomorrow, and perhaps get the names of the birds and flowers I have seen. Either way, a shower is $10 so I will have one of those!
Later
Murray arrived at 6pm so we had coffee and then the buffet, tanked up and moved the car to the RV parking area and then a shower…… excellent. Came back to the café bit and are having some of the local brew; from Silver Gulch Brewery; "America’s most Northerly", brewed especially for here called Coldfoot Pilsner. Had a chat with a group of guys contracted to the Alyeska Oil Pipeline… gave the, by now, familiar bear warnings, and said there is often a lot of bear activity by Pump Station 5; let’s hope so (he said from the safety of his SUV).

Tomorrow’s plan is to get as far as the Arctic Circle lay-by and camp there; not only is there a campsite, but also burn barrels…. So I’ll pick up firewood on the way. Murray currently on phone to Radio Solent. Beer going down very well.

Mountain Avens

Bear jingling

Cold beer in Coldfoot.

28th May

Tea and cornflakes for breakfast; the clag had cleared and we found ourselves overlooking Toolik lake and field station. Murray left at 11.45 and I drove to the 1st bridge over the Atigun River where I stopped to boil water.

Had just got the stove going when a hunter in a pick-up called Jerry arrived, saying that there was a musk ox close, but despite using his binoculars we couldn’t find it. We did get good views of Dall sheep high on the hill. He’s a bow hunter after grizzlies and we stood and chatted until Murray arrived. A short break, and then 19 miles further on, beginning the ascent.

Stopped at a lay-by at 1187m for coffee and lunch. This was the beginning of the real climb to the top of the pass. So Murray stopped for a bowl of noodles and some honey on a bagel, then he was off to start the climb. I stopped at ½ way up for the photo opportunity, and just after that we met the Swiss guy Wilf, whom we had met just South of Livengood on 25th May. Stopped for a chat… he’s been doing 130km a day on the Dalton and should make Deadhorse tomorrow night.

Eventually we reached the top for more photos and medals (Murray doing the whole climb in 2nd gear). Then I drove down the valley to a large lay-by with Karzis, bear-proof bins (hooray, I can get rid of the stinking chicken carcase) and right next to a fast flowing river for water.

The change in weather is very obvious – here the willows are 10’ tall and we can see the first spruce about 300 yards to the south of us. So here we sit, drinking wine in the sun, on a tundra evening and eat our pasta and meat sauce while the river tumbles past and the 1st sluggish mosquito lands on my arm – killed the bugger. Hope to be on the road for 9am so we can be at Coldfoot (about 63 miles south) early enough to enjoy their $15 all you can eat buffet

Murray & Jerry the bear hunter

Trucker's Memorial - bottom of Atigun Pass

Most Northerly spruce

27th May

Awake at 11am. Breakfast was easy – a bowl of cornflakes and cuppa and then Murray was off at 12.10. Packing up was easy and left most of the stuff on the front seat. The rain in the night had washed a lot of the dirt off the car, but left long icicles were hanging from the wheel arches. The stick holding the flag had broken so it was shortened.

I drove the 1st leg and stopped at the lay-by after 21 miles. A good supply of water flowing through a culvert below the road; so I sterilized enough to fill all our containers and had a cup of coffee and a blueberry bagel. Kept looking out for bears, but saw none. However, the eerie sound of the geese and a lone and forlorn curlew kept me company.

This place is one of the things that can be described as "awesome"; in much the same way that a can of coke can’t. An old couple passed me here travelling north – towing an old 50’s style land yacht, aluminium caravan! They had a chat with Murray a few minutes later and said they were going to Deadhorse for the night and then turning around and going home.

Murray arrived, had coffee and a croissant, and then continued. I drove on past the next pipeline pumping station and waited to provide lunch. The last leg saw us entering the clag again, but I found a lay-by and waited. Just before Murray appeared, a couple of guys showed up heading North and asking about Caribou "To photograph" Yeah, right!

Cooked supper of sausage stew and rice, cup of wine and sweet corn. So here we sit/sprawl, 11pm and still full daylight. I’m just going to get used to it, and then go home. I’ll have a small dram of rough old bollocks Canadian whisky and then turn in.

Should get over the Atigun Pass tomorrow. The "photographers" said it was 70’F South of that, with a black bear feeding on a road kill Caribou. Still no large mammals seen, but as the geese thin out, there are more curlew and snipe type birds and a lot less snow and ice; good, but the large jumbled blocks on the banks of the river, 10" thick and caused by the thaw washing them up the bank were a great sight. Saw our second biker, again on a big BMW.

Ice on the Atigun River

26th May

Late start - out of the truck by 11am, put everything back in, but then noticed that we had a puncture! Everything came out again and we changed wheels. Once that was done, we went off to see Murray’s friend Ester who is receptionist for the Arctic Caribou Inn. She was surprised to see Murray again, but was very helpful; lent us a phone for the call to tyre repairers and then allowed us to eat our fill for $7. And we were only charged that coz her boss was about.

Left there to go to the tyre place – a transport depot for one of the Oil companies. A taciturn fellow turned up and fixed the puncture, but didn’t charge for it. “Too busy to do the paperwork” he said. So we gave him a tip and set off.

Got to Murray’s previous turn-a-round point and sorted things out. Flag fixed, car repacked and he was off. Time 6pm. He cycled in 3 sections of 20 miles - each taking just over 2 hours; for a total distance of 50 miles in 6 hours. During my second wait a guy called Larry turned up just to check we were ok. He’d passed Murray earlier and said he’d pass the word to all the other truckers – offered to help, as all Alaskans seem to do. Also, offered gum and a fluoro yellow beanie hat Murray seems delighted with.

I stopped after the 3rd stint and then brewed up and used the last of the cooked chicken in a couple of tins of soup, served with bagels. Just about to turn in – 1.15am and no noticeable difference in the quality of light. Midnight sun… they’re not kidding. Saw some sort of hawk, a raven and a black headed ptarmigan.

It's all downhill from here

Caribou on the foggy tundra

25th May

DAY OF THE EPIC DRIVE

Woke up in the car par, shifted all the luggage around and got a coffee at Starbucks before heading out of Fairbanks toward Fox on the Elliott Highway. Had great hopes of getting a coffee at Livengood, but there were no services, and suddenly we were on the Dalton Highway.

The beginning looks like a slightly wider version of the track to Kinchurdy Farm! And so it started – 414 miles to go on an unmade road.

The weather was beautiful and the country was BIG. The road was not bad once you got used to it and there were only a few trucks. We made the first stop at the huge bridge across the Yukon, where I took the opportunity to pan for gold using Colleen’s frying pan – no luck. Then drove on til we reached the Arctic Circle. Another stop; photos and a cup of tea – fresh milk and sugar at last. Met a biker on his BMW who’d ridden up from Texas, and was heading North to Deadhorse.

Still the terrain was gently hilly, with lots of spruce and birch and we headed further and further North until we eventually reached Coldfoot. It’s an old mining camp that was then used to house some of the thousands of construction workers that the road required. Now it is a collection of prefab huts and rusted old machinery in a huge levelled area. And, oddly enough, a post office in a hut, staffed by a woman with perfect English, with a very strong German accent. Had a burger and coffee in the diner, then topped up with fuel, before Murray took over the driving and we continued ever Northward.

Passed the highpoint of Gobblers Knob, with a slightly smoky haze in the air and continued on to the Atigun Pass through the Brooks Range of mountains. This rises to 4800ft before dropping away dramatically on the other side. This range of mountains is where the 2 continental plates meet, and to the North the terrain changes dramatically – no more rolling hills, no more tall growth – just flat open tundra all the way to Deadhorse; this is where we saw all the wildlife (list at end of today’s entry).

As we looked forward we could see a fog/cloud bank below us which we descended into with 120 miles to go. An odd noise started from the right, rear wheel, but looking out of the window nothing appeared amiss. There was almost no plant growth above 8" in height and we ground on ever Northward.

Finally the loom of huge buildings appeared through the pale mist and we arrived at the huge oil town/factory of Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay. A little cheekily, we pinched a cup of coffee at the "Arctic Caribou" and then drove to a secluded car park to bed down for the night. Time arrived at Prudhoe was 11.53pm. Time we started the Dalton Highway was 10.45am. THIRTEEN HOURS – we’ve made it.

WILDLIFE
Greyish Goose – White fronted
White Goose – Snow goose
Swan – Tundra Swan
Tan Owl – Short eared
Snowy Owl
Caribou
Gopher
Snow Bunting
Arctic Fox
Bloody Mosquitoes
And all the way along the road the Alyeska Oil Pipeline kept us company
PS. Nip of whisky before bed!

Panning for gold on the Yukon

Only 300 miles to go!

'Nuff Said!

Big truck - small road

We're on a road to nowhere

Click link below for YouTube video of arrival at Deadhorse

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GVe1GhGFBE

24th May

Picked up car with no trouble and drove back to Colleen's. Couple of emails & phone calls and we packed up the "truck"; a 2006 silver Dodge Durango - left Colleen's and went to Fred Meyers for supplies; left Wasilla at 5pm.

Drive to Fairbanks was spectacular - huge areas of trees. Passed Denali on our right and arrived at Nenana about 10pm. This is a small town, famous for its tripod; A wooden pylon that rests on the river ice. Bets are taken as to when the ice breaks up and the 20ft black & white structure floats downstream.

Arrived in Fairbanks at 11pm with the sun still well up, stopped at another Fred Meyers for mosquito nets & hats. Also bought a cooked chicken and french stick that we scoffed in the car park.

Drove 4 blocks down to car park at Pioneer Park where we are kipping for the night. Bike & petrol are chained to the outside of the car. Should leave early in the morning to travel the 84 miles to the Dalton Highway. Lots of mosquitoes in this car park in the centre of the city of Fairbanks. God knows what the Tundra will be like!

The Nenana Tripod

Parked in Fairbanks 11:30pm

23rd May

Up at 9.30, couple of cups of coffee then say goodbye and walk in to Talkeetna for breakfast at the Roadhouse. At last! I had pancake, bacon & maple syrup. Chatted to a retired couple from Florida over food and then Larry & Jane arrived.

We picked up our smelly kit from K2's storage shed and back to their house by the lake where we tried to sort out car hire for trip to Prudhoe. It was very difficult and Murray & I had almost given up. Larry, however didn't, and turned up trumps when he sorted us out an SUV from Enterprise. Everything was organised over the phone & we collect it tomorrow. Then we hare off to the top of the continent and Murray cycles back to Talkeetna with me as support.

Said goodbye to Larry & Jane & Colleen drove us back to hers, after she finally allowed us to buy her a pizza. Murray & I dashed off to get a USB for his camera & PDA, and then back via a liquor store. All looking good to go arctic tomorrow - car gets to Wassila by 9am.

Larry & Jane's

22nd May

Up at 8.40 and checked in with base camp Lisa to get a flight out and then to ranger's tent to discuss the cache - no probs there; very understanding and they may use the supplies themselves. Packed up, and Greig flew in, picked us up and flew out with Lisa through one-shot pass. Flew over an 'O' level geography landscape.

Landed, changed and off to "The West Rib" for fabulous burger, beer and coffee. Moseyed 'round town and checked in to hostel for $19 a night run by a very cute lass. Bath (oh god yes!) and then back to The West Rib for more beer and burger (caribou this time) where I sit and write this (hic).

Plans evolving for me to be Murray's support driver so he can complete cycle from Prudhoe to Talkeetna, thereby keeping the original plan for his trip alive. Murray 'phoned Coleen, Larry and Jane & Colleen will pick us up tomorrow. While there is absolutely nothing wrong with Murray's appearance (besides the tanned face & hands and ridiculous pasty rest of him) the sight of real females not in climbing gear is most pleasant; in fact, I can almost feel a Benny Hill moment coming on. Day looks to end well (Hic!)

Back at K2 Aviation's HQ

Murray on the banks of the Susitna River.

21st May

Up at 8am as planned, and ready to leave by 11. Started up motorcycle hill ion fine fettle, making it to the top in 40 minutes - the same time as every party that we watched yesterday. I was very short of breath at the top, but continued past squirrel point to the plateau below windy corner where we depoted our stores.
By now I was gasping for breath, feeling very stupid and my hands and feet were cold (though, to be fair the weather up there was rotten). We buried the supplies and started the return to 11,000 ft.
By now I was coughing fitfully, and always out of breath.
Near the bottom of the descent past squirrel point Murray's leg went down a crevasse, and as I anchored myself in the snow to arrest any further fall, I coughed and spat frothy pink sputum. It looks very much as if I have HAPE, and the only cure is to descend. Soon.
We are trying to work out a plan so Murray's trip is not a dead loss. He is away at present, trying to find a ranger to discuss the situation regarding the depot 2000 ft. above us.

Later
Waiting for Jim from 'Climbing for Christ' who is away getting me some Niphedipine tablets, and then we shift downhill........at least as far
as 9,700 but hopefully to 7,800. So it's pack up time

Much Later
Back at base camp at 1am. We were down at 7,800 by 10pm, where we stopped for a meal and a brew. I'm still coughing, but full of energy, vim and vigour. Crossed the glacier and crevasses at about midnight and arrived at base camp where a shoddy job of pitching the tent was made. Just eaten a snickers, and soon off to sleep.
Hope to fly out tomorrow.

20th May

Up at 10 am to a beautiful sunny morning for the routine melting an boiling and then a hot breakfast - very welcome after waking with the bag covered in ice and frost. But both our bags were in goretex bivvy bags so no problem. I've no idea what the temperature goes down to but I'm plenty warm enough in my bag in just underwear.

Talking of underwear, it'll be clean stuff tomorrow!

We hope to be up early tomorrow for a day of hard graft, as today was nothing but reading, dossing around, laying in the sunshine and eating.

The 'Climbing for Christ' crew arrived early afternoon and one of them, Kevin, had all the symptoms of HAPE, so he descended - the end of all his hopes.

Steve, the national geographic photographer, in the next door camp, has done our target route for tomorrow and says crampons should be excellent, with very little deep stuff. Going to be a hard day I fear.....enough of that, today has been a real holiday.

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Murray getting up

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Motorcycle Hill

19th May

Bloody freezing 1st thing this morning so stayed in my bag until 9am. Once up though, the day was clear and bright; almost no wind and not a cloud in the sky.

The usual ice melting performance before breakfast, and then broke camp, leaving at 12:30. The first 100 yds we travelled were a nightmare owing to the deep drift, with the by now familiar lifting cramponed feet out of knee deep holes.

However, once clear of that patch, and once I had repacked my bastard sledge, the rest of the journey was done in lovely weather. (Hope I have applied enough sunblock and lip salve).

We arrived at the 11,070ft. motorcycle hill camp at about 4pm, and found an empty set of tent walls to use, and made camp in a very leisurely fashion. The snow walls and the sun turning this place into an oven; not moaning in the least - it could be bloody freezing, probably will be too, once the sun goes behind the hill.

Motorcycle hill itself looks to be an absolute bastard - steep and unforgiving, with 3 crevasses and I'm not looking forward to it. However, that won't be tomorrow, coz tomorrow is a rest day - just lazing around camp and acclimatizing to the altitude.

I was panting a little earlier, but seem to have caught my breath now.

The nicotine replacement tablets are working a treat at keeping me regular - the idea of having to stop en route to poo doesn't appeal.

The 2 Brits we met on day 4 are here and planning to ascend tomorrow

I'm above the clouds, and the views are stunning.

. Morning at 9,000ft.

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Evening at 11,000ft.

18th May

OK now it's cold.....hard slog back up to 9000ft. with the sledge being an absolute bastard; turning over all the time. At one point it took 20 mins to go 100 yards. We arrived at 4:30 and dug out an old camp site to pitch the tent. Weather still bloody: cold and no viz.

Still we had a cuppa and then went back to pick up our depot of yesterday; all of 400 yards away but still took 45 minutes there and back. The drift is collecting in the trail and we are constantly wading through deep snow. However we eventually collected the supplies and battled back to a hot meal - God was that good.

The 'Climbing for Christ' crew who have been keeping pace with us are really helpful, despite their silly prayers about Jesus being their belay!

Must mention 2 more things: Disposed of the first bag of turds down the crevasse that had opened up in yesterday's camp. Secondly I froze my tongue to a bit of exposed metal. Tomorrow we plan to move to 11,000 ft. to the camp at motorcycle hill.

Camping in rotten weather at 9,000ft.

17th May

Fitful nights sleep, but up at 8:30 to a beautiful bright morning. There was ice on the inside of the tent, and I had been sleeping with my face buried in the sleeping bag so the bag was damp - won't be doing that again.The heat of the sun was enough to dry it once I'd laid it on top of the tent.
The usual rigmarole of boiling and melting, then off up ski hill with all of our food and fuel - except for 3 meals worth which we will leave here.

We'd been going for only 10 minutes when we had to jump a deep crevasse, but there were no mishaps, so just a long slog until we reached 9930 ft. where we depoted our stuff.
The wind was continuously blowing drift onto the trail, filling it with soft snow, into which we sank constantly - f*ck! f*ck! f*ck!

The clouds however were well below us so the view was fabulous - Talkeetna getting some rotten weather probably.
We reached the depot point at16:30 and the road back was 2 hours 15 minutes in pissy zero vis conditions and more soft drift.
Tony the sledge was being a bastard and constantly over-running so we stopped and carried the sledges in the rucksacks - a reversal of roles that irritated me not a little.
Back here to 7740 camp to find light snow falling.
More boiling and melting of ice then tea and food, and into the tranquil, green and slightly smelly tent.
Tomorrow we shift camp to the depot to acclimatize.

High altitude pooing

16th May

Sitting at the base of ski hill (7740 ft).We left about 10:30 after packing everything away, so only about 30 minutes later than planned. Lots of spindrift had blown into the tracks overnight, so the first part of the walk to the depot was a bugger - the sledges toppling over constantly, hence me naming mine Tony Blair (hangs around at your heels like a poodle, keeps nipping at them and I'll be glad when it's gone)
After collecting our food we were fully loaded and headed for the base of ski hill. A long hard slog to get here, with me going down a crevasse (left leg in up to the goolies) but I got myself out with the help of adrenalin. Crossed one more horribly deep crevasse before the camp appeared over the crest of the hill.
Very lucky to find a superb empty camp so we moved in. The same old routine of melting snow while Murray made the tent good. The sun went behind the hill at 20:45 so it's cold now, have drunk my ration of liquid so one last pee and then time for bed.
Tomorrow is a depot run to the top of ski hill, and return empty for a second night here.

Camp at 7740 ft