Up at 8am as planned, and ready to leave by 11. Started up motorcycle hill ion fine fettle, making it to the top in 40 minutes - the same time as every party that we watched yesterday. I was very short of breath at the top, but continued past squirrel point to the plateau below windy corner where we depoted our stores.
By now I was gasping for breath, feeling very stupid and my hands and feet were cold (though, to be fair the weather up there was rotten). We buried the supplies and started the return to 11,000 ft.
By now I was coughing fitfully, and always out of breath.
Near the bottom of the descent past squirrel point Murray's leg went down a crevasse, and as I anchored myself in the snow to arrest any further fall, I coughed and spat frothy pink sputum. It looks very much as if I have HAPE, and the only cure is to descend. Soon.
We are trying to work out a plan so Murray's trip is not a dead loss. He is away at present, trying to find a ranger to discuss the situation regarding the depot 2000 ft. above us.
Later
Waiting for Jim from 'Climbing for Christ' who is away getting me some Niphedipine tablets, and then we shift downhill........at least as far
as 9,700 but hopefully to 7,800. So it's pack up time
Much Later
Back at base camp at 1am. We were down at 7,800 by 10pm, where we stopped for a meal and a brew. I'm still coughing, but full of energy, vim and vigour. Crossed the glacier and crevasses at about midnight and arrived at base camp where a shoddy job of pitching the tent was made. Just eaten a snickers, and soon off to sleep.
Hope to fly out tomorrow.
17.6.07
20th May
Up at 10 am to a beautiful sunny morning for the routine melting an boiling and then a hot breakfast - very welcome after waking with the bag covered in ice and frost. But both our bags were in goretex bivvy bags so no problem. I've no idea what the temperature goes down to but I'm plenty warm enough in my bag in just underwear.
Talking of underwear, it'll be clean stuff tomorrow!
We hope to be up early tomorrow for a day of hard graft, as today was nothing but reading, dossing around, laying in the sunshine and eating.
The 'Climbing for Christ' crew arrived early afternoon and one of them, Kevin, had all the symptoms of HAPE, so he descended - the end of all his hopes.
Steve, the national geographic photographer, in the next door camp, has done our target route for tomorrow and says crampons should be excellent, with very little deep stuff. Going to be a hard day I fear.....enough of that, today has been a real holiday.
.
Murray getting up
Motorcycle Hill
19th May
Bloody freezing 1st thing this morning so stayed in my bag until 9am. Once up though, the day was clear and bright; almost no wind and not a cloud in the sky.
The usual ice melting performance before breakfast, and then broke camp, leaving at 12:30. The first 100 yds we travelled were a nightmare owing to the deep drift, with the by now familiar lifting cramponed feet out of knee deep holes.
However, once clear of that patch, and once I had repacked my bastard sledge, the rest of the journey was done in lovely weather. (Hope I have applied enough sunblock and lip salve).
We arrived at the 11,070ft. motorcycle hill camp at about 4pm, and found an empty set of tent walls to use, and made camp in a very leisurely fashion. The snow walls and the sun turning this place into an oven; not moaning in the least - it could be bloody freezing, probably will be too, once the sun goes behind the hill.
Motorcycle hill itself looks to be an absolute bastard - steep and unforgiving, with 3 crevasses and I'm not looking forward to it. However, that won't be tomorrow, coz tomorrow is a rest day - just lazing around camp and acclimatizing to the altitude.
I was panting a little earlier, but seem to have caught my breath now.
The nicotine replacement tablets are working a treat at keeping me regular - the idea of having to stop en route to poo doesn't appeal.
The 2 Brits we met on day 4 are here and planning to ascend tomorrow
I'm above the clouds, and the views are stunning.
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Morning at 9,000ft.
Morning at 9,000ft..
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Evening at 11,000ft.18th May
OK now it's cold.....hard slog back up to 9000ft. with the sledge being an absolute bastard; turning over all the time. At one point it took 20 mins to go 100 yards. We arrived at 4:30 and dug out an old camp site to pitch the tent. Weather still bloody: cold and no viz.
Still we had a cuppa and then went back to pick up our depot of yesterday; all of 400 yards away but still took 45 minutes there and back. The drift is collecting in the trail and we are constantly wading through deep snow. However we eventually collected the supplies and battled back to a hot meal - God was that good.
The 'Climbing for Christ' crew who have been keeping pace with us are really helpful, despite their silly prayers about Jesus being their belay!
Must mention 2 more things: Disposed of the first bag of turds down the crevasse that had opened up in yesterday's camp. Secondly I froze my tongue to a bit of exposed metal. Tomorrow we plan to move to 11,000 ft. to the camp at motorcycle hill.
Camping in rotten weather at 9,000ft.15.6.07
17th May
Fitful nights sleep, but up at 8:30 to a beautiful bright morning. There was ice on the inside of the tent, and I had been sleeping with my face buried in the sleeping bag so the bag was damp - won't be doing that again.The heat of the sun was enough to dry it once I'd laid it on top of the tent.
The usual rigmarole of boiling and melting, then off up ski hill with all of our food and fuel - except for 3 meals worth which we will leave here.
The usual rigmarole of boiling and melting, then off up ski hill with all of our food and fuel - except for 3 meals worth which we will leave here.
We'd been going for only 10 minutes when we had to jump a deep crevasse, but there were no mishaps, so just a long slog until we reached 9930 ft. where we depoted our stuff.
The wind was continuously blowing drift onto the trail, filling it with soft snow, into which we sank constantly - f*ck! f*ck! f*ck!
The wind was continuously blowing drift onto the trail, filling it with soft snow, into which we sank constantly - f*ck! f*ck! f*ck!
The clouds however were well below us so the view was fabulous - Talkeetna getting some rotten weather probably.
We reached the depot point at16:30 and the road back was 2 hours 15 minutes in pissy zero vis conditions and more soft drift.
Tony the sledge was being a bastard and constantly over-running so we stopped and carried the sledges in the rucksacks - a reversal of roles that irritated me not a little.
Back here to 7740 camp to find light snow falling.
More boiling and melting of ice then tea and food, and into the tranquil, green and slightly smelly tent.
Tomorrow we shift camp to the depot to acclimatize.
We reached the depot point at16:30 and the road back was 2 hours 15 minutes in pissy zero vis conditions and more soft drift.
Tony the sledge was being a bastard and constantly over-running so we stopped and carried the sledges in the rucksacks - a reversal of roles that irritated me not a little.
Back here to 7740 camp to find light snow falling.
More boiling and melting of ice then tea and food, and into the tranquil, green and slightly smelly tent.
Tomorrow we shift camp to the depot to acclimatize.
High altitude pooing
16th May
Sitting at the base of ski hill (7740 ft).We left about 10:30 after packing everything away, so only about 30 minutes later than planned. Lots of spindrift had blown into the tracks overnight, so the first part of the walk to the depot was a bugger - the sledges toppling over constantly, hence me naming mine Tony Blair (hangs around at your heels like a poodle, keeps nipping at them and I'll be glad when it's gone)
After collecting our food we were fully loaded and headed for the base of ski hill. A long hard slog to get here, with me going down a crevasse (left leg in up to the goolies) but I got myself out with the help of adrenalin. Crossed one more horribly deep crevasse before the camp appeared over the crest of the hill.
Very lucky to find a superb empty camp so we moved in. The same old routine of melting snow while Murray made the tent good. The sun went behind the hill at 20:45 so it's cold now, have drunk my ration of liquid so one last pee and then time for bed.
Tomorrow is a depot run to the top of ski hill, and return empty for a second night here.
After collecting our food we were fully loaded and headed for the base of ski hill. A long hard slog to get here, with me going down a crevasse (left leg in up to the goolies) but I got myself out with the help of adrenalin. Crossed one more horribly deep crevasse before the camp appeared over the crest of the hill.
Very lucky to find a superb empty camp so we moved in. The same old routine of melting snow while Murray made the tent good. The sun went behind the hill at 20:45 so it's cold now, have drunk my ration of liquid so one last pee and then time for bed.
Tomorrow is a depot run to the top of ski hill, and return empty for a second night here.
Camp at 7740 ft
15th May
Up quite late and cleared the snow off the tent. It took about 40 minutes to get the tent shipshape due to our sloppiness last night. Once that had been completed we sorted out our food cache and our rope work. Finally left base at 2pm on a short cache run.
Down and across the glacier with Murray leading - he disappeared into 2 crevasses, though not much further in that his thigh. We avoided a couple more, and I fell over because I forgot how to walk in crampons. Stopped and cached the supplies at 5:30pm - digging our freeze dried loveliness about 2 feet into the snow and returned to base camp. The return took about 3 hours, and we arrive at about 8:30.
2 brits just down from mount Hunter said hello and gave us a cuppa.
Cooked food (at least boiled the water and poured it into the food) had tea and boiled and melted water for the morning.
Now 10:30pm and writing this in bright daylight. Just about to turn in........hope to be up at 8 tomorrow to move camp to bottom of ski hill.
Down and across the glacier with Murray leading - he disappeared into 2 crevasses, though not much further in that his thigh. We avoided a couple more, and I fell over because I forgot how to walk in crampons. Stopped and cached the supplies at 5:30pm - digging our freeze dried loveliness about 2 feet into the snow and returned to base camp. The return took about 3 hours, and we arrive at about 8:30.
2 brits just down from mount Hunter said hello and gave us a cuppa.
Cooked food (at least boiled the water and poured it into the food) had tea and boiled and melted water for the morning.
Now 10:30pm and writing this in bright daylight. Just about to turn in........hope to be up at 8 tomorrow to move camp to bottom of ski hill.
Tent Maintenance
Murray getting ready
On the glacier
14th May
Ranger briefing went fine if a little scary. They recommended that we buy snow pickets so we went to buy them and then check in with K2 aviation. They said they could fly us out today, so a mad dash back to Jane & Larry's to collect all the kit, then back to the airstrip. Changed, did the last bites of packing, weighed the kit then on to the plane and take off.
Piloted by Greig, we flew through the gap in the cliffs at one shot pass and suddenly we were over the Kahiltna glacier with base camp beneath us. A nice landing on the skis, then unload the plane, and pitch tent. There was already a camping spot empty that we only had to enlarge a little, and we had our first practise with a snow saw.
We have just eaten the first of many freeze dried meals, and drunk the bottle of wine (Highly recommended).
It's 7:30 pm and I'm in a tent on my first glacier.....no going back now.
.
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Packing for the flight 
Ready for take off! .
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Base Camp Click link below for YouTube video of Base Camp
14.6.07
13th May
Woke very early at 5:30am (still not sure of body clock) and bumbled about until we left the hostel for a last trip to REI and breakfast. We then drove out of Anchorage to Wasilla to meet with Murray's friend Colleen.
Bought canes for marking our route on the glacier, and lavvy paper for the climb, before going 'round to her house in the trees to repack everything into rucksacks on the front grass.
After the big pack up we drove through more uninterrupted miles of tree and lake filled nothing until we reached Talkeetna.
The scale of this country and the sparseness of it's population are weird.....houses built of anything, anywhere; got a pretty good idea of housing and zoning regulations (few!) from Colleen.
Arrived in Talkeetna for a quick look 'round and then on to Jane and Larry's for a hearty and delicious supper of burger and home made baked beans.
They live in a lovely house by a lake that they are pleased to say is just too small for all the float plane guys to use.
Attached marker tape to our wands, and then to bed at 11pm.
Meeting the rangers for the climbing briefing at 9am tomorrow.
Packing at Colleen's
Downtown Talkeetna
Larry & Jane's
Larry, Colleen & Jane
12th May
A good early start; had coffee and some biscuits, and then South down the Seward Highway. The scenery is outstanding; the road curves gently through mountains that remind me of both the 5 sisters of Kintail and the Italian Alps. We stop at a roadside place at about 10am for breakfast, in the shadow of the portage glacier, on the shores of Portage lake.......still about 75% covered in ice. There is a road/rail tunnel from here to a place called Whittier.
We drive on to Seward and get there about noon. Real frontier town stuff - bits are new, bits are old and bits are falling down. Rusting cars litter the front yards and I keep half expecting tumbleweed to roll through.
Visit the Alaska sea life centre; big tanks of seals, sea lions and diving seabirds. The whole place tells a very depressing story of population declines.
Drive back north up the Seward Highway and we read about this place called Whittier - a secret harbour that the US Govt. built during the war to get supplies through to the Alaskan interior. They had to cut a 2.5 mile rail tunnel through the mountains to get the supplies away from the coast. Almost all the inhabitants live in a 14 storey block left behind when the Navy pulled out. Very definitely an odd place when we get there. Apart from the inhabited tower block there is the derelict buchner building......a huge concrete eyesore built to withstand earthquakes and house 1,000 men.
We just made it back through the tunnel in time, and drove back to Anchorage, and saw a couple of bald eagles circling above the inlet called Turnagain Arm.
We drive on to Seward and get there about noon. Real frontier town stuff - bits are new, bits are old and bits are falling down. Rusting cars litter the front yards and I keep half expecting tumbleweed to roll through.
Visit the Alaska sea life centre; big tanks of seals, sea lions and diving seabirds. The whole place tells a very depressing story of population declines.
Drive back north up the Seward Highway and we read about this place called Whittier - a secret harbour that the US Govt. built during the war to get supplies through to the Alaskan interior. They had to cut a 2.5 mile rail tunnel through the mountains to get the supplies away from the coast. Almost all the inhabitants live in a 14 storey block left behind when the Navy pulled out. Very definitely an odd place when we get there. Apart from the inhabited tower block there is the derelict buchner building......a huge concrete eyesore built to withstand earthquakes and house 1,000 men.
We just made it back through the tunnel in time, and drove back to Anchorage, and saw a couple of bald eagles circling above the inlet called Turnagain Arm.
Feeling like a seafood dinner, we decided to eat at the Snowgoose restaurant. A delicious meal of shellfish, crab and rice, and a pint of the local brew called 49er. Bar towels from the UK cover all the walls (Harveys, Tanglefoot and Wadworths to name a few). Back to the hostel to look for my tobacco pipe....no sign of it; some damn colonial has pinched it!
Whittier, Prince William Sound
13.6.07
11th May
I wake up with a mild hangover, and after coffee we head to REI to stock up with food and the last bits of kit. Over the road to a Carrs supermarket, where we get dried fruit and munchie bars; the idea being that the midday meal on the hill doesn't require cooking.
Back to the hostel for a couple of hours kip, and then of to a 'Village Inn' to eat ("any time is a good time for pie").
No beer tonight......Whooppeeee, no hangover tomorrow. The plan is to drive to Seward in the car that a friend has lent Murray. Meant to be a beautiful road.
A bootful of food10th May
Decent check in at Gatwick and then a 3 hour wait for the flight. Tony Blair will make some sort of announcement while I'm airborne.....really don't care. 8 hours in the air watching Pixar movies then land at Minneapolis and clear immigration and customs with no problem. Index fingers of both hands are printed, photo taken and I'm in. Kick around the airport and have a beer until the flight for Anchorage. Flight in a rickety old 757- crowded, crap seats, no entertainment and no sleep. It's 5am body time when I land. The stuffed bear in arrivals that I had so much hope for is a bit of a let down.......Oh it's big enough but not the enormous specimen I'd been led to expect by the urban legend email that did the rounds a few months ago.
Was met by Murray, standing with a piece of paper saying 'Simon'. Had a much needed coffee, and then drive to the Spenard Hostel. The city is sprawling, low level and generally not very pretty. The roads are busy with large 4x4's, and a range of snowcapped mountains are constantly popping into view between gaps in the buildings.
Check in at the hostel ($21 a night) and then off to a bar called 'Humpies' (after the humpback salmon). Drank far to much beer, ate fabulously fresh halibut and chips, and somehow make it back to the hostel where I crash out on the sofa.
Was met by Murray, standing with a piece of paper saying 'Simon'. Had a much needed coffee, and then drive to the Spenard Hostel. The city is sprawling, low level and generally not very pretty. The roads are busy with large 4x4's, and a range of snowcapped mountains are constantly popping into view between gaps in the buildings.
Check in at the hostel ($21 a night) and then off to a bar called 'Humpies' (after the humpback salmon). Drank far to much beer, ate fabulously fresh halibut and chips, and somehow make it back to the hostel where I crash out on the sofa.
Spenard Hostel
Bear at Airport
Why I'm Doing This
Hi,
In May and June of 2007 I, Simon White, joined a friend of mine, Murray Spark, for a attempt on the summit of Denali, the highest peak in the North American continent at 20,320 feet.
Murray is cycling the length of the Americas, from North to South, and climbing Denali, Tajamulco & Aconcagua on the way.......For charity.
His website can be found at http://www.peaktopeak.co.uk/
Some people I know are interested in what I did (and didn't) do. For their benefit, and for yours, I have created this blog.
Being lazy, all I have done is typed in my diary entries. The Diary was written at the end of every day, and may contain some swearing (although I have asterisked the v*w*ls).
Also, some of the photos I took have been added - if you click on them they will open to full size, and you can see what a crappy photographer I am.
Pretty much it really.
Some people I know are interested in what I did (and didn't) do. For their benefit, and for yours, I have created this blog.
Being lazy, all I have done is typed in my diary entries. The Diary was written at the end of every day, and may contain some swearing (although I have asterisked the v*w*ls).
Also, some of the photos I took have been added - if you click on them they will open to full size, and you can see what a crappy photographer I am.
Pretty much it really.
Read on......
The Author & Drink
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