3rd June

Foul!

Up at 7.30, coffee at the hostel and then went and bought an adjustable spanner for the bike. Off to the tourist info office and got the info on Chena Hot Springs and sent a long email to everyone.

When I got back Murray had cycled off to get breakfast and returned with a box of Cheerios and fresh milk. Lazed about for a couple of hours and then drove to the hot springs.. Plenty hot enough! I could only manage about 30 minutes before I felt par-boiled and exhausted so I got out and bought a card for the kids – this time with 5 bears on it.

The rain and thunder had stopped by the time I was dressed, but sitting in the steaming water outside, while the thunder rumbled around was great. Loads of Japanese at the hot springs. Obviously a popular destination for them as a lot of (if not all) the signs are bi-lingual.

No fuel here, so at last we topped up with the 5 gallons we have been hauling around since we left Fairbanks on our way north. Back to the hostel and we were just washing out the stinky cool box and topping up with water when two Brit, long distance cyclists said hello. Nicky and Jason (www.alaskatoargentina.co.uk) are doing the same journey as Murray (towing trailers). Expert bike mechanics, they gave Murray’s bike the once over, adjusted the chain, and sorted problems he didn’t know he had. Said goodbye to those guys and we were off again.

Murray straight on the road, while I stocked up on food again. This time I bought a bloody great bag of ice for the coolbox, and almost all the meat is cooked and vacuum packed sausages and salami. Drove on ahead for 23 miles to the lay-by we’d selected from "the milepost" and Murray turned up – delighted with the way the bike was performing and had soup, ciabatta and camembert – oh! The joys of just having been shopping. Also drank the 6 bottles of cold Alaskan beer. Did not, however, enjoy the savoury snack I purchased, lured by the olive on the front of the box - "Triscuits". They are to all intents and purposes savoury, garlic flavour shredded wheat – foul!

BLOODY MOSQUITOS

Chena Hot Springs

2nd June

Very early start – up at 5.40, boiled up for tea and breakfast and Murray was on the road at 6.40. the usual 20 miles ahead to globe creek for tea and bagel – just realised what is weird; not the moose poo in the bushes, it’s the fact that we now have full-size birch & aspen, and an English style summer day with bird song, but no sign whatsoever of any agriculture. No fields for livestock or arable, no hedges; just wilderness. Countless miles of forest with the very occasional homestead – like a teaspoon of rice sprinkled over a tennis court.

Drove ahead to a gas station for coffee, fuel and smokes and then returned to the 21 mile point to fuel Murray. Murray arrived and ate and then I dashed in to Fairbanks…God, people, buildings, traffic! However, the people at the tourist info centre were very good and I used internet to figure out Murray’s chain tension probs and booked our hostel and found locations of bike shop and launderette.

Met Murray at Fred bloody Meyers and we went to hostel. He fell off the bike at 2mph due to chain jumping and has grazed arm and knee. I have super cheap t-shirt and shorts to change in to courtesy of Walmart (crikey… even the US has chavs!) and got a pair of Converse for Daisy.

Hostel is a set of permanent tents with wooden floors and beds (like M.A.S.H but beige) and common areas (showers, kitchen etc) are cabins. They are also erecting tepee for the summer. Murray and Rolf the owner have fallen out over hot water and mirrors (shaving just ain’t worth the hassle).I Wait for Murray to ablute and then off to the tourist info to use the internet facilities and just up the road to use the launderette. Jesus, I stank as I undressed for the shower.... I smell different – a little like the smell of freeze dried food, perhaps it is these "trans fats" that are used over here. Perhaps I am just changing the way I smell, perhaps it’s the DEET.

Launderettes are the same everywhere – stuffy, dull and mesmerising – still we have a full stock of clean clothes.

Back to the hostel to dump the car and then a beer in the Boatel bar and BBQ ribs with cornbread and coleslaw at Big Daddy’s. both venues had live music…. Both sorts; country and western – liked the guitarist's style at Big Daddy’s. Back to the hostel where everyone was still up and crashed out – proper bed, clean body and beer. Hooray.

the hostel in Fairbanks

1st June

Up at 7.15 to brew up and then over the Yukon Bridge. I waited the other side to get a photo of Murray as he cycled over. Found a .300 magnum rifle cartridge on the ground before I left – have kept it to hand in to the police.

After about 6 miles I came across a section of road about 3 miles long that was being rebuilt – we were taken through in convoy, and Murray, travelling behind, had to put his bike in the back of a pickup and get driven through. After the 1st stop, I tried to collect water from the Hess creek, but it was very muddy and didn’t bother – but I did see what looked like a swallowtail butterfly flit off through the trees.

Parked for second stop with only 14 miles of the Dalton Highway remaining. Big change in plant life as I travel south – birch and aspen are now full size trees and there are lots more insects; although fewer mosquitoes thank god! Third stop at end of Dalton Highway to wait for Murray and another photo – just after he arrived a snowshoe rabbit wandered out of the bushes and nibbled some grass in front of us. I drove as far as the "arctic circle trading post" in joy where all I could buy was coke and dr pepper. They did let me have water though, and free coffee. A chat with the Indian looking girl there made me realize growing up here must be difficult – home school, no other kids for 40 odd miles etc.

Drove back to meet Murray at the Colorado Creek Trailhead, and was just cooking as he arrived, making a superb 74 miles for the day. Should be in Fairbanks for tomorrow (Sat) night at 66 miles away; given that Murray’s knees don’t play up too much. The plan is for the two support stops tomorrow, then I dash ahead to secure hostel accommodation and find a launderette and then meet Murray at the ubiquitous Fred Meyers and then showers, change and beer!

end of the road

snowshoe rabbit

31st May

Up at 7.15, so an early cuppa at the picnic spot in the trees and we used the last of the firewood to toast bagels, which were eaten with honey. Murray took the opportunity to have lots of photos taken by the Arctic Circle sign for various sponsors: Cotswold, Ringwood Brewery and Bournemouth FC.

Drove on the 22 miles and boiled water while listening to birds singing in the stunted pines and spruce. The first 20 miles involved a bit of a climb so the size of trees decreased and the ground cover became more tundra like. Should be a gentle descent to the Yukon crossing where there should be smokes, coffee and, if we’re lucky, beer.
Later
Arrived at Yukon crossing – no beer, but all the rest, along with sodas. I got to the second stop and drove a further 12 miles to a truck stop for cigs and a couple of cold cans to take back. An odd place – about 3 or 4 beaten up old trailers hidden in the trees about ¼ mile off the road – seemed to stock everything, including tourist gimcrackery. A large butch lady (well I say lady) came out in unpleasantly tight clothing, sold me what I needed and disappeared back inside.

Odd way to make a living; and I found myself thinking, on the return drive, that she had been an emotionally damaged Vietnam veteran after a sex change. I really must get back to civilization!

After the 2nd stop, it was an easy drive to the Yukon, with fabulous views as I crested the last rise. Despite the undoubted mental instability I will be very sorry to leave the Dalton highway tomorrow. Murray arrived after making good time and we are sitting in the diner waiting for food.

Weather still glorious and none of the stops today were plagued by bloody mossies. There is a photo book here that tells the tale of the winter of 04/05 when a bear got in to the place and wrought havoc while it was closed for the winter…. Poor bugger was shot while he lay sleeping on a pile of souvenir merchandise. But looking at the size of him in the photos, I would have shot him too.

Still haven’t seen one, will soon start baiting with porridge. Walked over the bridge later, and from the uphill, South end saw a slipway that looked a good place to take a photo. Wandered back to it, only to be met by the sound of bloody bagpipes! Luckily it was just some hunters listening to a tape while they loaded their boat. Moved the car into the shade and crashed out for the night.

Alyeska Pipeline & Dalton Highway

Crossing the Yukon

The Mighty Yukon

30th May

Good early start and over to the café for a coffee, then filled up on water and ice before crossing the road to the visitor centre. Got lots of info as well as a certificate and the stamp.

Set off and drove 20 miles to the Koyukuk river crossing. Stopped here to brew and found a new flower – there are scrawny dandelions everywhere. Just as we left Coldfoot, the dog teams behind the truck stop started to howl – very eerie sound. Usual routine of 20 mile runs and park ups until I got to the Jim River, where I jingled around collecting fire wood that I strapped to the roof of the car. I made it to the Arctic Circle lay-by at 6pm. Chopped wood into manageable lengths, lit mossie coils, brewed up and got all ready.

There were no mosquitoes here on the way up, and now we are mobbed – luckily 100% Deet keeps ‘em off. Writing this sitting by the fire with our beans, rice and sausages cooking and sizzling away. Will have to drive to nearest river for water before bed tonight so washing up can be done and morning tea can be made. BLOODY MOSQUITOS!!!

Cooking at the Arctic Circle camp

Back at the Arctic Circle

29th May

It rained during the night, but the ground was dry enough when I got up at 8.30. Breakfast, tea and coffee were done as usual. Took pic of Murray by the northernmost spruce and then drove on 22 miles, past the wide, braided and rushing river until I had passed the road guys grading the surface and stopped to brew up, and picked a selection of the wild flowers.

At the foot of Sukakpak Mountain we are back into spruce country; lovely sunshine and trees up to 20’ tall. After the break I drove on 21 more miles to the turnoff to a track through the forest. At the end of this was a stack of firewood and a tent frame made of spruce boughs. Just north was a small lake with a pair of Slovenian Grebes and a Merganser type duck. Picked a few different wild flowers – more varieties even 20 miles south and I jangled through the woods for a while with my bear bells on until Murray turned up and I cooked the noodles.

Drove the last 21 miles to Coldfoot in glorious sunshine at 25mph, with the windows open listening to the birdsong in the trees, now including a good mix of scrawny aspens with their pale quaking leaves. Here I sit, on the veranda of the Coldfoot truck stop, fresh pack of smokes, sun shining and waiting for Murray. The post office looks to be open, so if I can find a card I may send one. Hope to visit the rangers’ centre over the road tomorrow, and perhaps get the names of the birds and flowers I have seen. Either way, a shower is $10 so I will have one of those!
Later
Murray arrived at 6pm so we had coffee and then the buffet, tanked up and moved the car to the RV parking area and then a shower…… excellent. Came back to the café bit and are having some of the local brew; from Silver Gulch Brewery; "America’s most Northerly", brewed especially for here called Coldfoot Pilsner. Had a chat with a group of guys contracted to the Alyeska Oil Pipeline… gave the, by now, familiar bear warnings, and said there is often a lot of bear activity by Pump Station 5; let’s hope so (he said from the safety of his SUV).

Tomorrow’s plan is to get as far as the Arctic Circle lay-by and camp there; not only is there a campsite, but also burn barrels…. So I’ll pick up firewood on the way. Murray currently on phone to Radio Solent. Beer going down very well.

Mountain Avens

Bear jingling

Cold beer in Coldfoot.

28th May

Tea and cornflakes for breakfast; the clag had cleared and we found ourselves overlooking Toolik lake and field station. Murray left at 11.45 and I drove to the 1st bridge over the Atigun River where I stopped to boil water.

Had just got the stove going when a hunter in a pick-up called Jerry arrived, saying that there was a musk ox close, but despite using his binoculars we couldn’t find it. We did get good views of Dall sheep high on the hill. He’s a bow hunter after grizzlies and we stood and chatted until Murray arrived. A short break, and then 19 miles further on, beginning the ascent.

Stopped at a lay-by at 1187m for coffee and lunch. This was the beginning of the real climb to the top of the pass. So Murray stopped for a bowl of noodles and some honey on a bagel, then he was off to start the climb. I stopped at ½ way up for the photo opportunity, and just after that we met the Swiss guy Wilf, whom we had met just South of Livengood on 25th May. Stopped for a chat… he’s been doing 130km a day on the Dalton and should make Deadhorse tomorrow night.

Eventually we reached the top for more photos and medals (Murray doing the whole climb in 2nd gear). Then I drove down the valley to a large lay-by with Karzis, bear-proof bins (hooray, I can get rid of the stinking chicken carcase) and right next to a fast flowing river for water.

The change in weather is very obvious – here the willows are 10’ tall and we can see the first spruce about 300 yards to the south of us. So here we sit, drinking wine in the sun, on a tundra evening and eat our pasta and meat sauce while the river tumbles past and the 1st sluggish mosquito lands on my arm – killed the bugger. Hope to be on the road for 9am so we can be at Coldfoot (about 63 miles south) early enough to enjoy their $15 all you can eat buffet

Murray & Jerry the bear hunter

Trucker's Memorial - bottom of Atigun Pass

Most Northerly spruce

27th May

Awake at 11am. Breakfast was easy – a bowl of cornflakes and cuppa and then Murray was off at 12.10. Packing up was easy and left most of the stuff on the front seat. The rain in the night had washed a lot of the dirt off the car, but left long icicles were hanging from the wheel arches. The stick holding the flag had broken so it was shortened.

I drove the 1st leg and stopped at the lay-by after 21 miles. A good supply of water flowing through a culvert below the road; so I sterilized enough to fill all our containers and had a cup of coffee and a blueberry bagel. Kept looking out for bears, but saw none. However, the eerie sound of the geese and a lone and forlorn curlew kept me company.

This place is one of the things that can be described as "awesome"; in much the same way that a can of coke can’t. An old couple passed me here travelling north – towing an old 50’s style land yacht, aluminium caravan! They had a chat with Murray a few minutes later and said they were going to Deadhorse for the night and then turning around and going home.

Murray arrived, had coffee and a croissant, and then continued. I drove on past the next pipeline pumping station and waited to provide lunch. The last leg saw us entering the clag again, but I found a lay-by and waited. Just before Murray appeared, a couple of guys showed up heading North and asking about Caribou "To photograph" Yeah, right!

Cooked supper of sausage stew and rice, cup of wine and sweet corn. So here we sit/sprawl, 11pm and still full daylight. I’m just going to get used to it, and then go home. I’ll have a small dram of rough old bollocks Canadian whisky and then turn in.

Should get over the Atigun Pass tomorrow. The "photographers" said it was 70’F South of that, with a black bear feeding on a road kill Caribou. Still no large mammals seen, but as the geese thin out, there are more curlew and snipe type birds and a lot less snow and ice; good, but the large jumbled blocks on the banks of the river, 10" thick and caused by the thaw washing them up the bank were a great sight. Saw our second biker, again on a big BMW.

Ice on the Atigun River

26th May

Late start - out of the truck by 11am, put everything back in, but then noticed that we had a puncture! Everything came out again and we changed wheels. Once that was done, we went off to see Murray’s friend Ester who is receptionist for the Arctic Caribou Inn. She was surprised to see Murray again, but was very helpful; lent us a phone for the call to tyre repairers and then allowed us to eat our fill for $7. And we were only charged that coz her boss was about.

Left there to go to the tyre place – a transport depot for one of the Oil companies. A taciturn fellow turned up and fixed the puncture, but didn’t charge for it. “Too busy to do the paperwork” he said. So we gave him a tip and set off.

Got to Murray’s previous turn-a-round point and sorted things out. Flag fixed, car repacked and he was off. Time 6pm. He cycled in 3 sections of 20 miles - each taking just over 2 hours; for a total distance of 50 miles in 6 hours. During my second wait a guy called Larry turned up just to check we were ok. He’d passed Murray earlier and said he’d pass the word to all the other truckers – offered to help, as all Alaskans seem to do. Also, offered gum and a fluoro yellow beanie hat Murray seems delighted with.

I stopped after the 3rd stint and then brewed up and used the last of the cooked chicken in a couple of tins of soup, served with bagels. Just about to turn in – 1.15am and no noticeable difference in the quality of light. Midnight sun… they’re not kidding. Saw some sort of hawk, a raven and a black headed ptarmigan.

It's all downhill from here

Caribou on the foggy tundra

25th May

DAY OF THE EPIC DRIVE

Woke up in the car par, shifted all the luggage around and got a coffee at Starbucks before heading out of Fairbanks toward Fox on the Elliott Highway. Had great hopes of getting a coffee at Livengood, but there were no services, and suddenly we were on the Dalton Highway.

The beginning looks like a slightly wider version of the track to Kinchurdy Farm! And so it started – 414 miles to go on an unmade road.

The weather was beautiful and the country was BIG. The road was not bad once you got used to it and there were only a few trucks. We made the first stop at the huge bridge across the Yukon, where I took the opportunity to pan for gold using Colleen’s frying pan – no luck. Then drove on til we reached the Arctic Circle. Another stop; photos and a cup of tea – fresh milk and sugar at last. Met a biker on his BMW who’d ridden up from Texas, and was heading North to Deadhorse.

Still the terrain was gently hilly, with lots of spruce and birch and we headed further and further North until we eventually reached Coldfoot. It’s an old mining camp that was then used to house some of the thousands of construction workers that the road required. Now it is a collection of prefab huts and rusted old machinery in a huge levelled area. And, oddly enough, a post office in a hut, staffed by a woman with perfect English, with a very strong German accent. Had a burger and coffee in the diner, then topped up with fuel, before Murray took over the driving and we continued ever Northward.

Passed the highpoint of Gobblers Knob, with a slightly smoky haze in the air and continued on to the Atigun Pass through the Brooks Range of mountains. This rises to 4800ft before dropping away dramatically on the other side. This range of mountains is where the 2 continental plates meet, and to the North the terrain changes dramatically – no more rolling hills, no more tall growth – just flat open tundra all the way to Deadhorse; this is where we saw all the wildlife (list at end of today’s entry).

As we looked forward we could see a fog/cloud bank below us which we descended into with 120 miles to go. An odd noise started from the right, rear wheel, but looking out of the window nothing appeared amiss. There was almost no plant growth above 8" in height and we ground on ever Northward.

Finally the loom of huge buildings appeared through the pale mist and we arrived at the huge oil town/factory of Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay. A little cheekily, we pinched a cup of coffee at the "Arctic Caribou" and then drove to a secluded car park to bed down for the night. Time arrived at Prudhoe was 11.53pm. Time we started the Dalton Highway was 10.45am. THIRTEEN HOURS – we’ve made it.

WILDLIFE
Greyish Goose – White fronted
White Goose – Snow goose
Swan – Tundra Swan
Tan Owl – Short eared
Snowy Owl
Caribou
Gopher
Snow Bunting
Arctic Fox
Bloody Mosquitoes
And all the way along the road the Alyeska Oil Pipeline kept us company
PS. Nip of whisky before bed!

Panning for gold on the Yukon

Only 300 miles to go!

'Nuff Said!

Big truck - small road

We're on a road to nowhere

Click link below for YouTube video of arrival at Deadhorse

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GVe1GhGFBE

24th May

Picked up car with no trouble and drove back to Colleen's. Couple of emails & phone calls and we packed up the "truck"; a 2006 silver Dodge Durango - left Colleen's and went to Fred Meyers for supplies; left Wasilla at 5pm.

Drive to Fairbanks was spectacular - huge areas of trees. Passed Denali on our right and arrived at Nenana about 10pm. This is a small town, famous for its tripod; A wooden pylon that rests on the river ice. Bets are taken as to when the ice breaks up and the 20ft black & white structure floats downstream.

Arrived in Fairbanks at 11pm with the sun still well up, stopped at another Fred Meyers for mosquito nets & hats. Also bought a cooked chicken and french stick that we scoffed in the car park.

Drove 4 blocks down to car park at Pioneer Park where we are kipping for the night. Bike & petrol are chained to the outside of the car. Should leave early in the morning to travel the 84 miles to the Dalton Highway. Lots of mosquitoes in this car park in the centre of the city of Fairbanks. God knows what the Tundra will be like!

The Nenana Tripod

Parked in Fairbanks 11:30pm

23rd May

Up at 9.30, couple of cups of coffee then say goodbye and walk in to Talkeetna for breakfast at the Roadhouse. At last! I had pancake, bacon & maple syrup. Chatted to a retired couple from Florida over food and then Larry & Jane arrived.

We picked up our smelly kit from K2's storage shed and back to their house by the lake where we tried to sort out car hire for trip to Prudhoe. It was very difficult and Murray & I had almost given up. Larry, however didn't, and turned up trumps when he sorted us out an SUV from Enterprise. Everything was organised over the phone & we collect it tomorrow. Then we hare off to the top of the continent and Murray cycles back to Talkeetna with me as support.

Said goodbye to Larry & Jane & Colleen drove us back to hers, after she finally allowed us to buy her a pizza. Murray & I dashed off to get a USB for his camera & PDA, and then back via a liquor store. All looking good to go arctic tomorrow - car gets to Wassila by 9am.

Larry & Jane's

22nd May

Up at 8.40 and checked in with base camp Lisa to get a flight out and then to ranger's tent to discuss the cache - no probs there; very understanding and they may use the supplies themselves. Packed up, and Greig flew in, picked us up and flew out with Lisa through one-shot pass. Flew over an 'O' level geography landscape.

Landed, changed and off to "The West Rib" for fabulous burger, beer and coffee. Moseyed 'round town and checked in to hostel for $19 a night run by a very cute lass. Bath (oh god yes!) and then back to The West Rib for more beer and burger (caribou this time) where I sit and write this (hic).

Plans evolving for me to be Murray's support driver so he can complete cycle from Prudhoe to Talkeetna, thereby keeping the original plan for his trip alive. Murray 'phoned Coleen, Larry and Jane & Colleen will pick us up tomorrow. While there is absolutely nothing wrong with Murray's appearance (besides the tanned face & hands and ridiculous pasty rest of him) the sight of real females not in climbing gear is most pleasant; in fact, I can almost feel a Benny Hill moment coming on. Day looks to end well (Hic!)

Back at K2 Aviation's HQ

Murray on the banks of the Susitna River.